This American rye breaks all the rules of rye whiskey (Review)

When you think of a rye whiskey, you can almost taste those spicy notes already. But spice doesn’t always have to take the lead in a rye. Jaywalk Straight Rye from Brooklyn takes a different approach. This American whiskey sets out to prove that rye can also lean surprisingly fruity. How that plays out—and whether it’s your thing—you’ll find out here.

To achieve its distinctive character, New York Distilling Company uses, among other grains, a special rye variety called Horton Rye. This is an heirloom grain with roots that go back several centuries. Over time, the variety had practically vanished. Together with Cornell University, the team searched for rye with historical roots in New York State. Horton Rye resurfaced, and a project began to bring it back, starting with just ten seeds.

Size plays an intriguing role with Horton Rye. The kernels are smaller than those of many modern rye varieties. According to the distillers, that means the sugars are more concentrated in the grain, contributing to a more intense flavor.

For Jaywalk Straight Rye, Horton is blended with organically grown Field Race Rye. The final mashbill is 75 percent rye, 13 percent corn, and 12 percent malted barley.

The whiskey has matured for varying periods. It’s a blend of six-, seven-, and eight-year-old rye, aged in American oak barrels with a level 3 char. It’s then bottled at 50 percent ABV.

The Jaywalk Rye bottle stands out for its shape. It’s not round, but angular. The clean label features an image of the Brooklyn Bridge, arguably a spot where plenty of people have been known to jaywalk. After all, the whiskey’s name literally means crossing the street unlawfully.

The first thing you notice when you bring the glass to your nose is just how aromatic this rye is. If you’re expecting an immediate hit of dry rye and pepper, hold that thought for a moment.

First come ripe stone fruits and honey. The sweet fruit is soon joined by warm rye bread, salted butter, and a toffee-like caramel, giving the nose a soft, almost creamy feel.

Then the familiar rye spice starts to tickle your senses. Think black pepper that brings a little heat without overpowering the other notes. In fact, the fruit shifts and leans toward sweet pineapple. The aromas weave in and out, playing off each other beautifully.

On the first sip, Jaywalk Whiskey makes it clear there’s plenty of rye in the glass. The tongue is greeted by black pepper, spicy rye, and cinnamon sticks. Then come burnt sugar and caramel—the kind you get on fairground nuts.

That’s when it gets really interesting: the pineapple we picked up on the nose returns, joined by tropical mango and coconut. It’s an intriguing flavor set that dances with the pepper across your palate.

This Jaywalk Whiskey shows two sides. On one hand, the classic American rye spices. On the other, it’s as if someone set down a bowl of tropical fruit right next to it.

The finish carries that duo all the way through. Mango and coconut linger along the cheeks for a while. A touch of rye bread swings back in to add a spicy accent before it gently fades.

Jaywalk Rye Whiskey is a compelling dram well worth trying, even if rye isn’t usually your thing. Thanks to those tropical tones, it’s a standout twist on the classic flavor profile. If you’re expecting nothing but pepper, this whiskey will surprise you. Hosting a tasting and want to wow your guests? This is an excellent, budget-friendly bottle to pour.

+ Surprisingly fruity character

+ Lovely balance between tropical fruit and classic rye spice

- If you love your rye bone-dry and peppery, this may skew a bit too fruity