On Islay whisky is part of life for most people. Adam Hannett (43), master blender at
Bruichladdich, grew up here. We talked to Hannett about life, whisky and the future of Bruichladdich.
Over the years, Hannett learned from some of Bruichladdich’s most influential figures. Take for example Jim McEwan and Duncan McGillivray. Today, he doesn't only make the
Bruichladdich spirit, but also Port Charlotte and Octomore while continuing to experiment with barley, casks and different approaches to whisky making.
You grew up on Islay. Which memories of the island stand out
most from the years before whisky became part of your life?
I love living on Islay and have nothing but fond memories
growing up here. The scenery is breathtaking and my childhood was predominantly
spent outdoors with my siblings - walking, swimming and exploring the beaches.
The way the light changes throughout the year with the seasons and the weather
means the view never looks the same two days in a row - and so a small island
can always look new.
What was your first experience with whisky?
Like most people on Islay, whisky was always part of
family celebrations. While my first unnofficial whisky might have been to sooth
sore gums as a baby. Then my dad gave me my first dram during a Hogmanay
celebration to toast the new year.
When did whisky first become genuinely interesting to you?
The moment I joined
Bruichladdich. I wanted to stay on
the island and when Bruichladdich reopened in 2001 I jumped at the chance to
work in the visitor centre. Being immersed in the story of the distillery, the
spirits we were creating, and the people who worked there got me hooked.
You started at Bruichladdich as a tour guide. What was it
about the distillery that drew you further in?
Undoubtly the people. The energy and the passion was
palpable, there was a real sense of community. Every day I was learning
something new from the whole team around me – and I beame completely
fascinated. Whisky is more than chemisty and craft, it’s agriculture,
community, memory time.
Who had the greatest influence on you during those early
years?
Duncan McGillivray, our previous Distillery Manager, was
a huge influence. He had such a positive, can-do attitude and nothing was ever
a problem. He also had an encyclopedic knowledge of the disitllery – every
machine, every sound, every smell. It was unbeliveable. Without him we would
never have got the Victorian equipment up and running again. A proper
Bruichladdich legend.
What did it mean to you personally to eventually take over
from Jim McEwan?
Jim was an incredible mentor and I feel honoured to have
learned from him. But of course they are big shoes to fill! But before Jim left
he told me to do everything my way, in my style – it had to be me in the whisky.
I still carry everything he taught me, while telling my own story.
How has your own approach to making whisky developed since
then?
Being Master Blender comes with a lot of responsibilty –
managing a team as well as our stocks and spirit. I’ve grown in confidence over
the years and refined my own whisky making style. As Bruichladdich has evolved
so have our sustainability committments, and I’m always looking at ways we can
reduce our inputs, get the most out of our raw ingredients, and give back to
the community and environment.
What does the way you make whisky reveal about you as a
person?
Paitience! Nothing in whisky is every done quickly.
Nothing is rushed and absoultey everything is considered. In today’s fast-paced
world, to be able to take your time over something and really scrutinse every
detail is a wonderful part of the job.
Can you remember a cask that genuinely surprised you? And
how did it surprise you?
One of the joys of my job is having the responsibility to
keep an eye on the maturing stocks, which means opening the casks and sampling
them to check on the progress and assess the whiskies. In doing this, I’ve learned
that every cask really is individual and two of the same casks maturing side by
side can differ quite dramatically. I suppose seeing this over the years means I
expect the unexpected! I’ve come to realise that marrying and blending casks is
all about understanding how the differences work together to create a balance
and flavor profile that helps to tell the story of the whisky itself.
What do you notice in a whisky today that you might not have
noticed twenty years ago?
The agricultural side of whisky making is a lot more
prominent in our industry now. Our spirits start in the soil, and at
Bruichladdich we’ve always been fascinated in barley varietals, growing
techniques and farming systems. It’s great to see these conversations happening
more and more today.
Bruichladdich talks a great deal about provenance, barley
and the island itself. What does place mean to you when you're making
whisky?
Place is everything. I want to make whisky where Islay
can be found in every drop. Our whiskies are quintessentially Islay; we grow
over 50% of our barley here, every cask matures on site on our shores, and we
bottle using Islay spring water from Octomore Spring. To make a whisky that speaks of where it is
from is so special – and it’s something I take great pride in.
Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte and Octomore each have very
distinct identities. How do you approach each of them differently?
It's
great to have both peated and unpeated single malts in our whisky portfolio.
For me, it’s a chance to showcase the various styles and depth of flavour
available in the whisky market and challenge myself as a whisky maker to master
these varying expressions.
With
Bruichladdich, I’m always looking to enhance our signature floral and fruity
style which works so beautifully with our unpeated spirit.
Port
Charlotte is such a versatile spirit. Like Bruichladdich, I’m looking to
capture our house-style and balance this with Port Charlotte’s unique barbeque
peat smoke. The spirit also takes to casks exceptionally well, so it’s great to
explore different wood types and flavour profiles.
Octomore
is a welcome challenge year on year. The unique and precise balance of varying
peat levels, cask influence and barley provenance is a complex alchemy, and
pushes me as whisky maker.
Are there experiments currently sitting in the warehouses
that you're particularly curious about?
Always! Experimentation is a key part of what we do here
at Bruichladdich, and there’s always something in the pipeline. Right now, we’re
experimenting with more grains and even looking at creative ways we can explore
the whisky-making process itself.
When you look ten years ahead, where would you like
Bruichladdich to be?
As a whisky-maker, I’m leaving things for the next
generation – and I want to leave things better than I found them. I hope in ten
years Bruichladdich is still making incredible, interesting, flavour-forward Islay whiskies.
- What is your favourite whisky?
It’s almost impossible to choose – but I have a soft spot
for Port Charlotte 10. - How many glasses of whisky do you drink per week?
Despite my job (and outwith sampling!) I’m not a huge
whisky drinker. I love a dram on a Friday evening by the fire, a lovely way to
ease into the weekend. And through the summer when the weather is good a Classic
Laddie highball or two in the garden of an evening is something I have taken to
very well. - What is your favourite bottle in your collection?
It changes all the time (based on whats open usually!) but
the different quadruple distilled whiskies we have released over the years are
favourites as the concept is just so different to anything else. - What is the most expensive whisky you’ve ever tasted?
I have been lucky enough to try some old an rare whiskies
– some very old Bruichladdich’s would probably be the most expensive. However,
I am left with an appreciation of the spirit and how special it is to taste
something so old rather than a memory of the price tag, thankfully! - Which whisky-producing countries should we be watching?
I love what’s happening in the Nordics – it’s interesting
to see how these single malts are shaped my extreme local climates and native
grains. - Which whisky do you wish you had made yourself?
I think the great thing is that at Bruichladich we have
the opportunity to make anything we want – we just have to figure out how to do
it and when we will get time to do so! - What is the least favourite whisky you’ve ever tasted?
It wouldn't be polite to say. Knowing how much effort goes
into creating whisky, even if its not to my taste – I appreciate someone has
put a huge amount of effort in and that has to be applauded.