Scotch Malt Whisky Society ‘Wholesome & Substantial’ Review

On the labels of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) you’ll find the most evocative names like Pause for Garbanzo, Tropical Fireworks, or Caked in Custard. The mystique around SMWS bottles is immense, and their quality is widely praised. Whether the enigmatic Wholesome and Substantial lives up to the hype, you’ll discover in this SMWS Wholesome and Substantial Review.

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society was founded by Philip ‘Pip’ Hills. In an era when blended whisky was the norm, Hills was often told there was no market for his ideas. He dreamed of bottling his own single cask, single malt whiskies. By tuning out the naysayers and working tirelessly, he achieved his goal and now we get to enjoy gems like Wholesome and Substantial in this review.

The label of Wholesome and Substantial carries a gorgeous description we can’t keep from you. Soft nougat with dark chocolate and a sweet-and-sour plum sauce. With water: roasted lamb and creamy millet porridge with red-wine-roasted rhubarb. The distillery behind this single malt isn’t listed on the label, but the name Royal Brackla is the most common whisper on the world wide web.

After those poetic label notes, it’s time to pull the cork. With that familiar pop, the first aromas of chocolate and blackberry jam rise from the glass. A gentle Oloroso sherry character drifts into the nose. Thanks to the sweet fruitiness, the aroma even hints at ruby port.

The label’s flavor notes, plum sauce, soft nougat with dark chocolate, and red-wine-roasted rhubarb, are spot-on. Rhubarb’s brightness and the sweetness of nougat and chocolate work together beautifully. Now that the whisky has had a moment to breathe, a savory note of smoked ham comes through nicely. There’s plenty to discover on the nose, yet no single aroma dominates and that’s a pleasure.

After much restraint, we can’t hold back any longer, it’s time for the first sip. The opening sweetness of creamy chocolate and honeyed granola dances across the tongue in the most delightful way. The fruit profile leans into dark fruits, fresh berries, and again, rhubarb. At 57.8% alcohol by volume, this Wholesome and Substantial is a powerhouse, yet the alcohol is beautifully integrated, making this nectar of the gods surprisingly approachable on the palate.

The second sip is every bit as impressive, and the party in your mouth keeps going. Channeling the SMWS tasting panel, let’s free-associate on what we smell and taste. This whisky evokes an intimate Christmas Eve, serving loved ones a succulent slab of roasted pork belly marinated in honey and gentle spices. We raise a glass of robust Malbec to a satisfying finish.

The finish is long and warming. That creamy mouthfeel clings to the palate. Sweet notes trade places with spice, think cinnamon and speculaas. Chocolate and dark fruits linger on the tongue. This is a dram to savor, one to nurse for hours in good company.

With Wholesome and Substantial, the Scotch Malt Whisky Society has delivered something truly magnificent. This is a whisky to enjoy all evening long. Layer by layer, you pick up new aromas and flavors, like peeling an onion. Sweet, bright, and savory notes weave in and out without losing each other. There’s nothing to fault in the nose, palate, or finish.

Every lover of Scotland’s nectar deserves a fantastic single cask, single malt like this. That’s also the rub: because the SMWS requires membership, the Society’s bottlings aren’t accessible to everyone. If you do take the plunge and join the SMWS adventure, you’ll have a superb dram on your hands.

+ A complex whisky to savor all evening

+ Its sweet, bright, and savory notes make it appealing to a broad audience

+ The alcohol is well integrated

- To buy bottles like this, you need to become an SMWS member first

Read the rest of our SMWS articles here.