Dornoch Cask No. 102 (6 Years Old) Review: ‘It’s Like Standing in a Bakery’

For many whisky lovers, the names Simon and Phil Thompson might ring a bell. The brothers have been active as independent bottlers for years, and since 2017 they’ve also been producing their own Dornoch single malt whisky and gin. What makes this nectar of the gods from the town of the same name so distinctive and special? You’ll find out in this review.

The Thompson brothers first stepped into the whisky world by opening a whisky bar in their parents’ magnificent Dornoch Castle Hotel. Hungry for new flavors and inspiration—and with a soft spot for old-school whisky styles—Simon and Phil broadened their horizons by launching an independent bottling venture. Under the Thompson Bros name they’ve released many fine rums and characterful whiskies. You may even have added one of their bottles with those recognizable, colorful labels to your collection.

Bottling other people’s whisky is great fun, but it didn’t quite satisfy the brothers’ appetite. In 2016, Simon and Phil truly hit their stride when they set up a micro-distillery in an old fire station next to their “home base,” Dornoch Castle. Their dream to create a whisky packed with character—in the spirit of single malts from the 1940s, ’50s and ’60s—could finally begin.

In 2017, the first Dornoch spirit ran from the stills. The Thompson brothers opted for a heritage barley variety called Plumage Archer: a cross between Danish Plumage barley and an old English variety named Archer. With an extended fermentation of no less than seven days, Dornoch whisky develops a character all its own. Time to unravel the mystery of the water of life from cask number 102.

The slim 50 cl bottle of this Dornoch cask number 102 looks elegant and sports a clean label featuring a photo of Loatgoan beach under a blue, cloud-streaked sky. The back label tells you everything you want to know about this whisky. The barley used is malted Plumage Archer, fermentation took 12 days with brewer’s yeast, and maturation was in a first-fill bourbon octave. With ingredients and maturation covered, it’s time to nose and taste.

In the glass, the whisky throws a warm amber glow reminiscent of a fallen autumn leaf. As the legs creep slowly down the sides, the first aromas reach your nose. It’s a concentrated scent that evokes syrup or treacle. In your mind, the whisky transports you to a bakery where spices are folded into the bakes.

The grainy notes are rock solid: think brown bread, oat flakes and malt. On the nose there’s also polished leather, vanilla toffee and dried apricot. Give it a little time to breathe and a subtle sweet smoke seems to appear, as if someone laid a pineapple on the grill.

After all those enticing aromas, it’s time for a first sip. The tongue is immediately wrapped in an oily, almost creamy texture. On the palate, the whisky betrays its youth with a touch of alcohol heat and white pepper. The brown bread we picked up on the nose is still there but fades to the background, making way for the freshness of white grapes and stewed apple.

The finish is medium-long and warm. Oak shows through in a slight tannic bitterness, though it never overwhelms. There’s a spicy note that’s hard to pin down but suggests fennel seed. Finally, malt, oak shavings and pine resin linger on the palate.

Dornoch is genuinely unique. For a six-year-old whisky, Cask No. 102 smells fantastic. It’s not easy to get hold of a bottle, but for those who love a whisky with a boldly malty character, it’s worth the hunt. The palate of this single cask is still a touch youthful and sharp, but we’ll be keeping a close eye on Dornoch and its clear potential.

+       You can’t miss that distinctive, complex nose

+       Everything about this whisky speaks of authenticity and promise

+       The aromas and flavors whisk you straight into a bakery

-        After the mature nose, the palate feels noticeably younger and sharper

-        Bottles can only be purchased via a ballot system directly from Dornoch