How illicit stills gave rise to Scotland’s oldest distillery (Distillery Thursday)

Amid the green hills of Perthshire stands a distillery that has weathered more than almost any other: The Glenturret. What today is a luxurious, artisanal single malt began centuries ago as a clandestine operation. Discover the story of Scotland’s oldest working distillery in this Distillery Thursday.

Nestled among the rolling hills of Perthshire, just outside the town of Crieff, The Glenturret lies tucked along the River Turret. Step onto the grounds today and you walk straight into a tale spanning more than three centuries: a history of smuggling, craftsmanship, quiet years, and rebirth.

Long before The Glenturret bore its current name, the secluded valley around the Turret was a haven for illicit distilling. The landscape couldn’t have suited secret stills better.

Thanks to its vantage points and sightlines, you could spot the taxman from a long way off. The entire valley is easy to survey, and the natural cover kept excisemen from discovering the operations too quickly.

Although it’s unclear exactly when distillation at The Glenturret first began, a document does confirm that it is Scotland’s oldest working distillery.

A 1763 lease from Sir Patrick Murray of Ochentyre shows that whisky was already being made that year under the name Thurot Distillery. The clandestine production continued for years until a new owner arrived in 1814.

The Murray family sold the distillery to Thomas MacInnes, who had a new name in mind: The Hosh Distillery, after the foot of the hills. The name derives from the Gaelic ‘cois’, meaning ‘foot’.

Meanwhile the local whisky economy was growing and becoming increasingly legitimate. Eventually, The Hosh Distillery stepped out of the shadows and went legal. In 1818 a license was granted to John Drummond, who immediately set about expanding the distillery.

The valley’s whisky was no longer a secret; it was sold openly. This happened on a modest, small scale. From day one, the craft production focused on quality, not quantity.

John and Hugh Drummond knew their craft. They secured an official document stating that The Hosh Distillery alone was permitted to use water from Loch Turret. It also granted the distillery exclusive rights to the peat along the riverbanks.

That proved crucial, because in the 19th century Perthshire became dotted with small distilleries. Many disappeared during economic downturns, tax hikes, or simply through overproduction.

Hosh endured, thanks in part to the whisky’s unique character and the small-batch, artisanal approach. Around 1870 the distillery’s name changed again, though not yet officially.

The official change came in 1875 under Thomas Stewart. The new name is the one that still gleams on the facade and the bottles today: The Glenturret.

The name permanently ties the whisky to its origins. It blends two words: ‘glen’ and ‘turret’. While ‘glen’ denotes the valley, ‘turret’ points to the crystal-clear water that shapes the whisky’s gentle style.

Up to this point, the Scottish distillery had fared reasonably well, but like so many others, The Glenturret struggled in the early 20th century. The First World War forced the stills to go cold and the doors to close.

That pause lasted beyond the war. An attempt to restart was stifled by American Prohibition and its economic fallout. In 1923, the curtain finally fell.

The buildings served only as storage for more than 350,000 liters of maturing whisky. Otherwise, the distillery stood still: a monument to a once-thriving whisky industry. The aromas of grain, yeast, and aging spirit gave way to dust.

Signs of life returned only in the 1950s. Whisky enthusiast James Fairlie revived the distillery in 1957, choosing traditional methods and a hands-on approach.

Using the original equipment, he brought the Scottish distillery back to life, distilling for 20 years as owner and master distiller. Around him, industrialization gathered pace and handcraftsmanship receded.

Thanks to its relatively small pot stills and artisanal process, The Glenturret is defined by a profile of fruity aromas, delicate florals, creamy vanilla, and subtle oak, occasionally threaded with a wisp of smoke in certain expressions.

In 1980, The Glenturret opened its doors to the public, welcoming over one million visitors in the years that followed. Meanwhile, the distillery changed hands, first to Highland Distillers and later to The Edrington Group.

In 2019, a new chapter began as two owners took over the distillery: Swiss-American philanthropist Hansjörg Wyss and the French crystal house Lalique Group.

Under their leadership, the distillery was renovated and the brand’s look and feel were reimagined. The visitor center was completely refreshed and a fine-dining restaurant was added.

Whisky production remained untouched. The distillery continues to work by hand, just as it has for decades.

The whisky decanter was redesigned under the direction of Marc Larminaux, Creative Director at Lalique. The new design embodies craftsmanship while also reflecting Lalique’s luxurious aesthetic.

In September 2022, something special was bottled at The Glenturret: the brand’s first 50-year-old whisky, released in an edition of 150 bottles. The first bottle was auctioned at Sotheby’s for £63,000. The remaining bottles were sold.

Today, several aged expressions from the brand are available, including in the distillery’s core range. Alongside Triple Wood, the lineup features 7-, 10-, 12-, 14-, and 15-year-old single malts. Two of these are still peated, but this year marks the final time peated whiskies will appear in the core range.

Beyond that, limited and older releases appear regularly: sometimes as exclusive collaborations or built around a special theme.

If you’d like to get closer to The Glenturret story, book a tour at the distillery in Scotland. You’ll find a wide range of tours on their website.

One tour guides you through the historic buildings, while another takes you into the warehouses to breathe in the aroma of maturing whisky. And how about an in-depth tasting of the whisky maker’s rare releases?

For more information about The Glenturret whisky and the tours available to book, visit the distillery’s website.