From the Excise Act to 'Waterfall' Stills: The Incredible Story Behind Fettercairn Whisky

Scotland is home to countless legends, not least in the form of distilleries. Fettercairn is a distillery where almost two centuries of craftsmanship blend. From royal visits to tropical whiskies: this is the tale of a true Highland legend.

There was a long tradition of illicit distillation by countless whisky-makers in Scotland. This came to an end in the 19th-century with the introduction of the Excise Act which made legal distillation feasible with a license that merely cost 10 pounds.

This critical law led to a sudden burgeoning of industry, as distilleries started popping up like mushrooms. One of the first to secure a license was Sir Alexander Ramsay.

A forward-thinking landed proprietor who promoted the Excise Act from the start, Ramsay converted a corn mill on the Fasque Estate into his distillery, cleverly utilizing local knowledge.

Pot stills had been used for years by illegal distillers. There was also a malting floor where barley was malted by skilled personnel. Ramsay employed all these men, giving him a flying start in whisky production.

Nonetheless, Ramsay decided to sell his estate with everything on it, including the distillery. As of 1829, the Gladstone family became the new owners.

One of their sons was William Gladstone who not only became Prime Minister of Great Britain but also introduced pivotal reforms for the whisky industry. He abolished taxes on malt and exempted Angel’s share from tax.

Under the management of the Gladstone family, distilling continued for many years, culminating in a royal visit in 1861. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert secretly dined in Fettercairn, the village where the distillery is located.

In the 20th-century, the distillery, like many whisky-makers, faced a number of setbacks, including financial challenges. For instance, less whisky was sold. This eventually led to a closure of more than ten years. Between 1926 and 1939, no spirit flowed from Fettercairn's stills.

Fortunately, this changed when Alistair Menzies stepped into the picture. He became the Distillery Manager at Fettercairn and decided to introduce innovations. Menzies sought a way to make the spirit softer and fruitier, which involved tackling the stills.

A copper cooling ring was installed around the still. Kept moist with running water on the outside, only the finest vapors inside the still could rise. It was like a kind of 'waterfall' that constantly flowed over the stills. This modification resulted in a much softer spirit and a tropical tone.

As the years rolled by, Fettercairn implemented a number of important changes. No longer was malting conducted on the old malting floors, instead the barley was sent to an external company, Bairds Malts.

After malting, the barley enters a Bühler mill at Fettercairn and is then processed in a new mash tun. This is followed by a fermentation duration of approximately 60 hours. The ring, installed years ago, still provides an exceptionally delicate spirit.

Fettercairn changes hands once again when in 1973, Whyte & Mackay assumes control of the distillery. The distillery largely maintains its independence in the years that follow, with a number of whiskies released and the distillery's reputation continues to steadily grow.

Stewart Walker eventually steps into the role of Distillery Manager at Fettercairn, with Gregg Glass as Master Whisky Maker and Blender by his side. The distillery collaborates closely with a large number of farmers within a 50-mile radius of the distillery, which is known as the Fettercairn 200 Club. It is from these farmers that the barley which forms the base of the whisky, comes.

In 2018, Fettercairn, after nearly 200 years, decides it's time for a new look. The single malt range is revamped. A new bottle that looks more luxurious than before is introduced and the logo is also improved.

The emblem of Scotland—a unicorn, still forms the logo of the distillery. The rebranding is carried out well in time for the distillery's 200th anniversary.

The 200th anniversary in 2024 is to be grandly celebrated with a collection of rare whiskies: the Fettercairn 200th Collection.

These whiskies come in a luxurious wooden case made of Scottish oak, copper, and brass. For many whisky enthusiasts, they can only look on in awe, as only ten sets have been made.

What is good news for lovers of the fresh and accessible whisky, is that the distillery has revamped its visitor center. A modern, tasteful experience has been created that brings the heritage and innovative side of Fettercairn to life. And this is accessible to everyone.

During the tours, visitors are immersed in the story of the distillery, from its beginnings to its future vision. Part of this vision is not just the tasting of whisky, but also the stimulation of the imagination. Gregg Glass would be happy to explain this to enthusiasts during a visit.