Kilchoman Loch Gorm 2023 Review: 'Not Just a Smoky Whisky From Scotland'

Many lovers of smoky whiskies rave about the union of peat and sherry. Whether it’s Pedro Ximénez casks or casks that once held Oloroso, peat & sherry is hot. Loch Gorm is the peat-and-sherry marriage from the Kilchoman distillery. Whether we’re just as excited about this celebrated pairing, you’ll read in this Kilchoman Loch Gorm 2023 review.

The Scottish island of Islay is packed with whisky distilleries. Most Islay whiskies are known for their smoky character. One of the island’s younger distilleries is Kilchoman. Surrounded by venerable giants like Laphroaig and Bowmore, the newcomer is easy to overlook.

Even so, whisky fans have found this farm distillery. Every step of the production process takes place on-site, which is unique for Islay. Founder Anthony Wills is so proud of his product that he even dedicated a series to each stage of making whisky. The artisanal approach resonates with drinkers, and the quality of Kilchoman’s nectar of the gods has won over whisky lovers around the world to Wills’s brand.

In this review we’re taking a closer look at a youthful Kilchoman expression. Loch Gorm is a no-age-statement whisky. It’s matured in Oloroso sherry casks sourced from the renowned bodega José Miguel Martin. With a gold medal from the International Spirits Challenge 2022 under its belt, expectations are high.

Kilchoman Loch Gorm comes in a black cardboard box that clearly got plenty of attention. The island of Islay gleams in gold on the front. In elegant, crisp lettering you’ll read that Kilchoman is “Islay’s Farm Distillery,” that the whisky is non-chill filtered and natural color, and that it’s a sherry-matured whisky bottled in 2023.

We open the box and take out the bottle. The label design is just as striking as the packaging, and a metal seal with Kilchoman’s logo and slogan is the real eye-catcher. With the familiar plop of the wooden stopper and cork, the first aromas of sweet sherry and a hefty waft of peat rush to greet you.

The lauded pairing of sherry and peat is unmistakable. That Kilchoman used Oloroso sherry casks is beyond doubt. Familiar notes of chocolate, freshly roasted nuts, and coffee are joined by peaty smoke and seaweed. The aromas are beautifully balanced, with no single note taking over or shouting too loudly.

We’d describe the fruitiness in this whisky as forest fruits, cherries, and dates. Given time to breathe, more smoke and earthy tones emerge. Some whisky drinkers call this a “dirty edge,” but in the case of this Loch Gorm, that’s meant in the best possible way. The earthy notes, smoke, sweetness, and fruit are accompanied by a pleasant peppery kick and a hint of lemon.

The first sip is like a marching band turning the corner into your street. There’s a lot happening in both flavor and texture. The mouthfeel is full and creamy, and the sherry notes come to the fore immediately. The chocolate and nutty flavors we picked up on the nose are clearly present. The palate then moves to lemongrass, leather, and smoked ham.

Hold it for a moment and you’ll notice it’s a young whisky. The peppery kick is prominent, but not unpleasant. The earthy peat from the nose returns, joined by spice, nutmeg and speculaas, stemming from the Oloroso cask.

The finish is fairly long and warming, but after the balanced nose and layered palate it doesn’t quite meet the sky-high expectations. A slight bitterness lingers on the tongue, think orange marmalade, which won’t be everyone’s cup of tea.

Kilchoman Loch Gorm is tailor-made for fans of peat & sherry, or anyone who loves smoky whisky in general. The rich aromas are surprising considering its youth. Nothing dominates; everything is beautifully in balance.

The flavor follows the nose, delivering sweet fruit, robust peat smoke, and fresh brightness with a peppery lift.

While we’d call the nose and palate rich and harmonious, the finish is long but not for everyone. Its youthful edge and slight bitterness may not win over every drinker. Is that a reason to skip this bottle? Certainly not. As far as we’re concerned, Kilchoman Loch Gorm 2023 is a flavorful Islay whisky that does justice to the union of peat smoke and sherry.

+ Rich aromas of peat smoke and sherry

+ Balanced whisky despite its young age

+ Flavorful and warming on the palate

- A touch of bitterness in the finish that not everyone will love

Read more of what we’ve written about Kilchoman.