Column: The Rise of Alcohol-Free ‘Whisky’: A Passing Fad or Here to Stay?

They're appearing more often on shelves. Flashy labels, bold names, but without alcohol. Non-alcoholic whisky is hot and perhaps suited well for warm weather. But is it any good?

Let's clear something up: what is often sold in stores as 'non-alcoholic whisky' is technically not whisky. Our favorite drink needs to age in barrels and contain at least 40% alcohol. Anything less falls officially outside the definition. We're dealing more so with 'whisky clones' or perhaps better said, whisky wannabes.

People's drinking habits are changing, nevertheless. Young people, for example, are drinking less alcohol, and you can see this in the sales and retail shelves. Whisky brands are gratefully seizing this change. Brands like Lyre’s, Loft House, and Gnista are aimed at the enthusiast who wants to experience the ritual of whisky without the kick of alcohol.

It's understandable to an extent. Whether you're the designated driver, pregnant, or just not in the mood for a hangover; it's nice to have something in your glass that resembles the water of life. It’s like participating in good company instead of benching it out with a glass of water.

Let's not beat around the bush: Most non-alcoholic 'whiskies' simply don't taste good. They lack warmth, complexity, and a creamy mouthfeel. Have you come across a deep smoky alcohol-free 'whisky' that warms you up? Exactly, neither have we. It’s like going to a concert and only getting to hear the soundcheck. Technically it's all in the same venue, but the experience is totally different.

I've tried multiple times to become enthusiastic about a non-alcoholic variant. I want to like it, but every time something essential is missing. It simply doesn’t feel right. And I’m not alone. Many whisky connoisseurs, tasters, and collectors are turning their backs on this trend. As if there is almost a question mark on their foreheads, because why would we want to drink that?

We should be cautious with our judgement though. Consider non-alcoholic beers for instance. They've transformed from trash to treasure in just ten years. Maybe the same will hold true for this new generation of spirits. There are already producers experimenting with smoke extracts, oak infusions, fermentation; techniques that could truly add something. Filliers Distillery from Belgium, a renowned player, recently released Virgo Vanilla & Oak. Yours truly has not tasted this yet, but is indeed curious.

In sum, keep an eye on the non-alcoholic market. There's a hype going on about less (strong) drinks. But the question remains: who is it for? Not for the enthusiast sipping his Islay peated whisky from a copita or a glencairn. There's no doubt about that. The rise of non-alcoholic whisky variants is intended for a new generation of drinkers who prioritize the ritual over the alcohol. And, honestly, if that means more people are becoming curious about the world of whisky, then perhaps that's only a win.

As long as we don't call it whisky.