Distillery Thursday: How Sakurao Rose from the Ashes of War

The city of Hiroshima is etched into every history book because of the Second World War. Whisky lovers may also know it for the Sakurao distillery. In this Distillery Thursday, we share the story behind these Japanese whisky makers and the brands that set them apart.

August 6, 1945 is a day the people of Hiroshima will never forget. World War II ends abruptly for Japan with an atomic bomb dropped on the city of Hiroshima. Two days later comes the final blow with a second atomic bomb on Nagasaki. In Hiroshima, 140,000 people die as a result of the bombing.

The city lies in ruins and the consequences for its people are unimaginable. Not far from the blast site in Hiroshima is the city of Hatsukaichi. Here you’ll find the Chugoku Jozo distillery and brewery, which at the time produced only shochu and sake. The buildings of this Japanese drinks maker fall silent. The entire region must work tirelessly to care for the wounded, bury the dead, and rebuild what was lost.

After the chaos and suffering of the war and its aftermath, the Japanese brewery and distillery rose like a phoenix from the ashes of the nuclear blast. It wasn’t until 1963 that production at the Chugoku Jozo distillery could resume and the first batch of sake was brewed. In the years following reconstruction, the company expanded several times to broaden its repertoire. In 2018, the brewery and distillery in Hiroshima Prefecture began preparations to produce whisky, and alongside shochu and sake, it now also focuses on (citrus) liqueurs and gin.

For distillation they use an Arnold Holstein Hybrid Still, custom-made for the distillery. Its location allows access to water from the nearby Oze River, and its position opposite Miyajima Island is a major advantage. The island supplies local botanicals that Sakurao uses in its gins, including lime, yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit), juniper, and cypress. They also work with an ingredient that would later grace every bottle: sakura, or cherry blossom.

The year 2021 marks a turning point in the history of the Chugoku Jozo brewery and distillery. From this year onward, the name Sakurao (derived from sakura) adorns all the company’s buildings. A name change calls for celebration, and a proper celebration means sharing the joy. The newly minted whisky distiller does so with its very first three-year-old Sakurao single malt and Togouchi blended whisky.

The Sakurao distillery releases different styles of whisky under two labels: Togouchi and Sakurao Single Malt. The Sakurao bottlings are single malt whiskies matured in a warehouse on the Seto Inland Sea. The location lends a subtle saline edge to the spirit. Sakurao Single Malt comes in two different expressions.

The first single malt, The Stillman’s Selection, is lightly peated and matured in two types of cream sherry casks. The distillers hand-select and taste the finest casks for Sakurao’s flagship. The second single malt is at least three years old and stands out for its use of no fewer than four different cask types. Sakurao’s craftspeople shape a broad flavor spectrum: sweet, salty, sour, and bitter, with even a hint of smoke wrapping the sweet finish.

Sakurao achieves its range of flavors thanks to two warehouses in distinct locations. One sits on the southern Seto Inland Sea, where warm, salty sea air caresses the casks. The second lies in the northern Chugoku Mountains, where a crisp mountain breeze prevails. The temperature differences between these sites create a dynamic maturation for casks filled with Sakurao spirit.

For the wanderlust-driven whisky lover, the Hiroshima region is a must-visit. Its rich history and stunning nature beg to be explored. The doors of the Sakurao brewery and distillery are open to visitors. If you’re after a trip you’ll never forget, consider waiting until the opening of Sakurao's full-fledged park.