Port Askaig 17 Year Old Review: 'Melon, Ham, and Grapes Woven into Campfire Scents'

A whisky shrouded in mystique: the bottlings of Port Askaig. Surrounded by heavyweights like Bowmore, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig, it’s not easy for a lesser-known Islay whisky to stand out. In this review, you’ll find out whether Port Askaig 17 Years Old deserves a place among the greats.

When you take the ferry from the mainland to Islay, you arrive at the little harbor of Port Askaig. Port Askaig doesn’t have its own distillery, it’s a brand from Elixir Distillers. The independent bottler chose this name because Port Askaig is the island’s eastern gateway, with stunning views over the Sound of Islay. The other entry point to the island is the southern approach at Port Ellen, but unfortunately that name was already taken.

The Port Askaig we’re tasting today spent 17 years maturing in American oak casks. It’s neither colored nor chill-filtered, and it’s bottled at 50.5 percent alcohol by volume (ABV). The 17 Years Old joins an eight-year-old and a no-age-statement cask strength release as the third whisky in Port Askaig’s new core range.

As the nectar of the gods pours from the sample bottle, a delightful aroma unfurls. Even before it hits the bottom of your glass, you catch green apples, honey cake, and a wisp of smoke. On a second nosing, gorgeous notes of citrus, melon, woodfire, and a touch of iodine come forward with real panache. The interplay of aromas is complex and invites you to delay that first sip as long as you can.

After a long nosing, it’s time for the first taste. On the tongue you immediately get a fresh, mineral mouthfeel. The whisky isn’t sharp, in fact, it’s surprisingly gentle given its 50.5 percent ABV. The fruity party from the nose throws an afterparty on the palate. Citrus, white grapes, and raspberries take the lead. But there’s more going on.

We mentioned the freshness of this Port Askaig. After the first sip, the texture takes on a completely different character, think a fine Italian olive oil that lightly clings to the lips. The fruit keeps you in its grip, but there’s something else: while the peat smoke stays in the background on the palate, the campfire steps confidently into the finish.

After a single review, it’s too soon to say whether Port Askaig belongs in the same league as Bowmore, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig. But the water of life we tasted here is nothing short of excellent. As far as we’re concerned, Port Askaig is a brand to watch.

+ Fresh and fruity without losing power or complexity

+ Peat lovers are well served too, especially in the finish

+ Plenty to discover

- At 140 euros for a 17-year-old whisky, it’s less accessible for a broader audience