About Light Peat and PX Tones in the Wolfburn Small Batch No. 458 Review

Wolfburn regularly releases a new Small Batch whisky. This time it’s Small Batch No. 458’s turn. The whisky marries Wolfburn’s house style with sherry and peat for a striking result. How this dram from Thurso teases your taste buds, you’ll read in this Wolfburn Small Batch No. 458 Review.

The Wolfburn distillery in Thurso is anything but idle. Alongside their core range and limited editions, they are constantly working on Small Batch whiskies. After distillation, these go into casks to mature in the warehouse. The distillery’s Small Batch Release series is consistently named after the warehouse and the exact row where the spirit has rested.

In this case, stock from Wolfburn’s warehouse 4, row 58, has been tapped for a new dram that, like the rest of the series, shows a different side of the distillery. The Wolfburn spirit is built from two parts: the first has been matured for seven years in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks, and the other is a lightly peated whisky from first-fill bourbon barrels.

Wolfburn Small Batch No. 458 comes in a handsome cardboard box with a green motif. The design seems to symbolize the peat smoke swirling through the liquid, while bold silver letters on the front proudly spell out No. 458. The box and bottle also make it clear that this is a lightly peated whisky, partly matured in Pedro Ximénez casks, and that it’s a limited edition.

The bottle itself is the ‘standard’ shape we know from other Wolfburn releases. Not overly luxurious, but with a neat neck that pours nicely. Time to move on to the elixir inside this dark bottle.

The moment you pop the cork, you can tell you’re dealing with a spicy whisky built on contrasts. That becomes even clearer in the glass: notes of black coffee and dark cherries rise up, backed by a malty undertone. The whisky leaves a lovely creamy trail on the glass. Take a deeper nosing and a range of spices steps forward: think nutmeg and cinnamon.

Take a sip and the malty character leads the way. The whisky doesn’t behave like your average sherry-cask dram. Tannins from the wood lay a creamy coating on your tongue while also drying the palate a touch. Give it a moment and this Wolfburn starts to tingle, with a wisp of ash drifting in, becoming a touch more pronounced toward the finish.

The finish itself is medium in length and predominantly sweet, with gentle peaty tones. It dries out a little toward the end with a smoky hint. Small Batch No. 458 is a peated dram, but a mild one. The smoke is far from overpowering and shouldn’t be an issue for those who don’t usually go for smoky whiskies.

Despite the mild peat and smoke, it’s tricky to say exactly who this Wolfburn expression is for. It’s sweet in places and smoky in others, without leaning too hard on any one element. There isn’t an overwhelming sherry influence here, but there’s plenty else to discover. If you don’t shy away from a touch of peat and a hint of ash, this is a whisky well worth trying.

+ An intriguing mix of flavors

+ Not your typical sherry whisky

- Not a dram for sweet-tooths